52" BLOWER SPOUT MOTOR CONVERSION
Last spring I purchased a used Blower for my 4041 tractor. With a Michigan winter getting close I mounted the hitch and the blower. I didn't get the wiring harness with the blower so I fabricated my own using the instructions in the Owners Manual.
Time to shoot the power to the spout! Instant 25-Ampere discharge. I removed the motor and found it nearly full of water and rust. A thorough cleaning only accomplished one thing; I found one of the brushes was bonded to the motor housing. This told me that the motor had to be isolated from the blower frame to enable reversing. Since the motor was bolted solidly to
the Blower Frame I suspect a DPO had problems with the motor and in lieu of spending $275.00 he chose to put it back together, minus a few rubber insulators, and then sell it.
Even a discounted price of $225.00 seemed atrocious for a crummy old wiper motor. I recalled seeing a catalog with DC gear motors in it. Sure enough there was a reversible Permanent Magnet Field German Wiper Motor in the catalog for $18.95! I didn't have much to lose at this point so I ordered one. It turned out to be perfect for the spout motor application. It
needs no isolation, just mount it and hook up the wires, well you do need to do a few things to make it fit.
The spout winder pulley is ½" in diameter and the wiper motor shaft is 10mm so a small 1.5" long, 1.25" diameter coupler must be machined with a 10mm (.3937", a .390 drill will do) hole through it. Counter bore one end ½" in diameter 5/8" deep. Drill and tap two ¼-20 holes near the 10mm end and a 3/16" diameter hole ¼" from the ½" end. Drill this hole through
one wall only, as you will have to drill through the other wall after lining up this hole with the existing hole in the spout winder shaft. Remove the threads from the end of the output shaft using an abrasive disk.
You will need a ½" thick spacer between the existing bracket and the new Motor. I made mine from HDPE plastic but you can use any material such as steel, aluminum or wood. P ut a 1.25" hole in the center of the new spacer and drill three ¼" holes, equally spaced on a 2" bolt circle to hold the new motor. After you remove the old motor from the bracket
remove the drive gear from the winder shaft. This will expose a thin-rimmed steel bushing in the bracket that attaches the motor to the blower. Take a hammer and knock out this bushing. I used my spacer as a drill jig to locate the new holes in the bracket. Clamp the spacer to the bracket centered on the large hole. One of the three bolt-holes must line up with the middle
existing mounting hole in the bracket. Use a ¼" drill to mark the holes. When they are marked remove the spacer and drill the holes out. I suggest using a 3/16" pilot drill first as this is tough stuff to drill. After you have the pilot holes drilled use a 17/64" drill to finish the job. If you don't have the holes exactly located you can wallow them out until the three
The motor is mounted with three 6mm x 1.0 x 30 bolts. These can be purchased at most hardware stores and all automotive jobbers. Before mounting the new motor, with the spacer between it and the bracket, clean up the ½" shaft on the winder pulley. Most likely you will have to remove the cable from one end of the spout to work it into
position. Place the winder shaft into the ½" hole and work it in until you see the pinhole through the hole you drilled in the shaft. Drill through the coupling and the shaft and press in the roll pin. The motor can now be bolted up to the bracket; don't forget to put the space over the motor shaft before you try to install the winder shaft.
Last, but not least, use Red Silicone Sealer material to waterproof the motor. Make sure all the openings and joints in the motor are sealed including where the wires exit the motor.
The motor is available from: SURPLUS CENTER, 115 West 0 Street, Lincoln NE 68501-2209,
Item #5-1367. Their number is 1-800-488-3407.
My next project is to find a suitable replacement carburetor for the Onan engine. Stay tuned!