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Read Rob Schepis' two-part story of this B-210 during (and after)
it's full restoration...

Kent,
Attached is a photo of my B210 which is currently under restoration and is 99%
complete. I've been using this site for the last two months or so but just
decided to join the club earlier today.
I obtained the tractor from a local mower shop who had it in the back of a barn.
He only had it for 2 years and used it for plowing his lot. It was
basically complete and original but tired and not getting the TLC it deserved.
I knew it was his slow season so I made him a low offer and worked out a deal
for $250.
He had no idea what year or model it was and never took the time nor cared to
find out. That tractor wouldn't go into gear without grinding. The
belt was too short and when the clutch was pushed down the gearbox was still
spinning. The guy insisted it was the right belt but It obviously wasn't.
The belt he was using was slightly larger than an average fan belt. Now
why would you need such deep pulleys if this little belt is only riding at the bottom of the pulleys? And what is the lever with 7 positions to the
right of the gear selector that moves the pulleys?
Now how do you find the belt when there's no model or year on the tractor or
anyone on Long Island, NY who can help? Well that's when I went on the web
and searched different keywords and came across simpletractors.com. What
an awesome discovery.
Within minutes of being on the site I was in the B-series of AC tractors and
looked at all the pictures of the different models and realized I had the
B210 (or B212) just like Les and I ordered the correct belt from University
Lawn Equipment.
Someone had painted the tractor red and then yellow again so I thought it
might have been a Simplicity but it is not, it's an AC. I also wasn't sure
if it was the B210 or 212 but under the spec's you list the bore X stroke so
I pulled the head and measured the bore to find out it is the 10hp model.
After installing the new belt and making several adjustments to the vari-shift setup I was so impressed with the tractor and the amount of
information and parts available on this site that I decided to do a complete
ground-up restoration.
I obtained the available owner's, parts & service manuals from Simplicity,
the decals from Wells Implements, a used seat from Kraft tractors from your
salvage yard list, and I await the replacement seat cushions from Wells Implements.
It's 99% done and will send photos for the gallery when complete. Can you
put my attached "before" photo on the gallery?
Thanks much,
Rob Schepis
Now here it is, after a full restoration. Click each picture for
a larger view.
Kent, After several evenings and weekends in the garage, here she is,
runnin' and lookin' as good as new. I rebuilt the engine and carb and
rewired her installing a volt gauge in place of the original amp gauge and also
threw in a new solenoid and voltage regulator.
The tractor was stripped down to the frame and mostly taken down to bare metal.
The grill assembly was taken apart and each piece was painted individually so as
to achieve the original look which I obtained by viewing tractors on this site.
The seat pan was rotted through from collecting water during years of sitting
outside. The pan was cut out and new material was welded in and with
minimal plastic work the repair is undetectable.
A complete seat was obtained from Kraft Tractor. The cushions were usable
but in poor condition but the framework was in excellent shape, the chrome
tubing buffed right up. The four replacement cushions were obtained from
Wells Implement along with the complete decal set. Having the original
seat and new cushions really added the finishing touch and kept the original
look. The decals from Wells were excellent to work with and look awesome.
The only decal I still need to install is the foil one with the model number.
The serial number is blank so you can punch your own number into it. My
daughter is due to be born the end of May so I plan to use her birthday (or s.s.#)
as the serial number, a little dedication to my first born.
Everyone who has seen the tractor now asks if I'm still gonna use it. Well
all I can say is that I've never been one for artwork and on that note, "it's
time to put Lil' Allis back to work."
And once again, this restoration project could not have been completed without
the information and suppliers obtained on simpletractors.com.
Thank You,
Rob Schepis
And now with the final finishing touches -- new lights
and "custom" mounting brackets... Click each picture for a larger
view.
Kent,
Attached are the final photos for the gallery of my completed B210 (completed
for now anyway, there's always something else you can do to these old machines
and that's 90% of the fun). I have now completed the fabrication and
installation of the light brackets.
I have also converted the ignition over to a 12volt coil and condenser which
fires off the original points. This works wonderfully, she practically
fires up before she cranks. She can idle so slow you can count the rpm's.
I had previously installed a magnetron which was recommended by the bozo at the
local mower shop. I learned that the magnetron does not work in these old
cast iron engines, the spark was very weak and the timing was off. I
surely didn't want to tear apart my finished project to send the flywheel out to
Briggs for a re-polarizing. Not to mention that I had a dump truck load of
topsoil on its way and therefore the downtime was a problem.
That's when I went over to the local auto parts for the 12 volt automotive coil
(with internal resistor) and a condenser. I mounted the coil to the
firewall, the condenser on the block, ran a few wires and a high tension lead
and in less than an hour the problem was history.
She runs so well now and for a $4 investiment, and no wrenching, I recommend the
conversion highly. If anyone's interest and unsure of exactly how its done
send me an e-mail, it's simple.
Thanks Again,
Rob Schepis
Rob, those are some nice mounting brackets. Perhaps
you should start fabricating them and selling them. I could use a set,
since without the offset forward (that yours have), I have to run a "heat
shield" to keep my rubber aftermarket headlights off my "stack
exhaust".... Kent
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